Free build guide
How to build
floating shelves.
By Jon, Farmhouse Urban Design · Updated
How to build the rustic floating shelf we sell: a hollow box of ¾″ knotty pine that slides over a hidden wall cleat, so there are no brackets on show. A drawing for every step, every part named. Free, no ads.
- Skill
- Beginner
- Time
- About an hour
- Steps
- 5
- Lengths
- 18–36″
Rather have us build it? We build it to order, from $92.
Building it later? Save this guide to Pinterest (opens Pinterest in a new tab).

Before you start
Eight sizes, one build.
The rustic floating shelf comes in eight sizes: 18″ × 7″ × 4″, 22″ × 7″ × 4″, 28″ × 7″ × 4″, 28″ × 10″ × 4″, 32″ × 7″ × 4″, 32″ × 10″ × 4″, 36″ × 7″ × 4″ and 36″ × 10″ × 4″. The steps are the same at every size; the parts’ sizes change.
- 01
Find the studs first
The cleat screws into the wall studs, so find them before you choose where the shelf goes. With its cleat screwed into two studs, ours holds about 25 lb at 7″ deep or 20 lb at 10″ deep; on drywall anchors alone, keep the load lighter.
- 02
Choose the depth
7″ deep suits a bathroom; 10″ holds books. Every size is 4″ thick, with room inside for the cleat.
- 03
Know the skills
It’s a beginner’s build: cutting and ripping boards square, pocket-hole joinery and brad-nailing. We build one in about an hour, before the finish.
The parts
Meet the parts.
Each group is built on its own, then goes into the rustic floating shelf in the steps below. Drawn from our model at 32″ long, all to one scale.
01
Box
¾″ knotty pine: the front runs the full height, with the top and bottom behind it and the ends between; the back is open for the cleat.
02
Wall cleat
A 2x rail that screws to the wall, with arms that run forward inside the box.
Tools & materials
What you’ll need.
A checklist: tick each one off as you gather it.
Tools
Measure and cut
Drill and join
Clamp and sand
Install and stay safe
Materials
Wood
Fasteners and glue
Finish
Step by step
How it goes together.
Each picture shows the rustic floating shelf so far, drawn at 32″ long: the parts the step adds are shaded, and the ones already built are ghosted.
Step 01 / 05Cut 01Cut the parts
Cut every part and rip the boards that need it: knotty-pine 1x boards for the box, and a 2x4 for the cleat, ripped so it fits inside the box.
Tip
Cut the longest parts first: if a cut goes wrong, the board is still long enough for a shorter part. Mark each part’s name on it in pencil as you go.
Step 02 / 05Cleat 02Build the cleat
Glue each arm to the rail and screw it on through the back of the rail, square to the rail and flush with its top and bottom.
Tip
Countersink the screws through the rail, so their heads sit flush and the cleat sits flat against the wall.

One we built. Step 03 / 05Box 03Build the box
Glue the top and bottom to the front and pocket-screw them from inside. The ends are too small for pocket holes: glue them in and brad-nail them through the top, bottom and front. The back stays open for the cleat.
Tip
Before the glue sets, slide the box over the cleat to check the fit: snug, but free to slide.

One we built. Step 04 / 05Finish 04Sand and finish
Sand the box, then stain, oil or paint it, with a topcoat over stain.
Tip
Test the stain on an offcut first: on pine, a pre-stain conditioner evens it out.

One we built. Step 05 / 05Hang 05Hang the shelf
Screw the cleat to the wall, level, into the studs. Slide the box over it until it meets the wall, then drive a screw up through the bottom into each arm.
Tip
The cleat sits inside the box a board’s thickness above its bottom, so draw the level line for the cleat, not the shelf. Mark each arm’s center on the wall just below it, to find the arms from underneath.

One we built.
Built for you
Build it yourself, or we’ll build it.
Free build guide
This page
- Every step, in order, with a picture
- The parts, named
- Tools and materials
- A tip for each step
Built for you
From $92
- Built to order in Flushing, Michigan, in any of the 8 sizes
- Raw wood, oil-rubbed, stained or painted
- Shipping to the lower 48 included
Questions
Good to know.
Something else? Email sales@farmhouseurbandesign.com. We reply usually within an hour or two, always within 24 hours.
How much weight can a floating shelf hold?
Ours hold about 25 lb at 7″ deep or 20 lb at 10″ deep, with the cleat screwed into two studs. On drywall anchors alone, keep the load lighter.
Is the Modern Floating Shelf built the same way?
Yes: it’s the same box on the same hidden cleat, finished in paint. This guide builds either one.
Can I buy one built instead?
Yes: we build it to order in eight sizes, raw, oil-rubbed, stained or painted, with the cleat and fasteners included. See the rustic floating shelf.
Is there a guide for a pipe shelf?
Yes: our pipe shelf sets one pine board on ½″ black-pipe brackets, with an optional paper towel holder. Its guide is free too. How to build industrial pipe shelves.